Path of the Elders
When learning to surf in Malibu, there were always older, more experienced surfers to watch and learn from. It was unspoken, that one did everything possible to avoid getting in their way. This was based on a respect for their abilities and the hope to gain some knowledge and insight to this tricky game in the waves by paying attention to what they did. It was obvious that their awareness was so much greater because their moves appeared effortless whether it was surfing the wave or simply moving to a better position for a wave coming but yet unseen. Their awareness extended far beyond the movement of the surf and how best to ride it to include all others in the line-up. So, on occasion when we ineptly did cross their paths, they had already categorized whether we had the proper humility and respect. If not, we were rewarded with an immediate dressing down, stink eye or worse, a slap down for a major infraction. On occasion however, there could be simple words of great wisdom or better yet, a quick story to get the point across. In this manner, the way to act and behave in the surf was passed down to the younger surfers.
My first few years on Ski Patrol were similar. The Chain of Command and Hierarchy of the organization were clearly communicated and shared even before you took a ski test and attended Rookie Training. This was an elite group of rugged Mountain Men and Women in their prime of their lives doing something they loved. There was also a set of unwritten rules, guidelines and an established pecking order that worked to keep us all safe and alive. Whether it was at work on the Mountain, after hours clinics, days off or Après work sessions at the Yodler & Austria Hof, you could always count on the elders schooling and guiding you. Not everybody got it and some got more than they deserved. The common goal was safety, awareness, education and fun. Dave McCoy set the standard. Gary Reitman communicated Mr. McCoy’s standards. The Managers and Supervisors managed and supervised. The Senior Patrollers – Patrolled and the Rookies and One Year Wonders tried to figure it out and not get hurt. There were so many great role models over the years and a couple of Piles along the way. You had a choice, do the job well or move to ski school.
The best surfer got the best waves; that was how it worked. The others took turns, and everyone seemed to know whose turn was next. Of course, this was out of a mutual respect from the surfers of lesser skill who sought to gain something to improve their own abilities by observing the better riders. And the more adept surfers, in turn would have the know-how and experience to be in the best position for the good waves anyhow. It seemed to me a very simple formula and it worked well.
On Patrol you had to earn the privilege of working the Top of the Mountain, becoming a shooter and wearing a cross on your parka with pride. There were no givens. Respect was earned and demanded. The Best Patrollers got the best routes, chair assignments and work details. Powder came to those that earned their place on the Mountain. You knew where you fit in and worked hard to maintain the Mountains standards.
Somewhere along the line as surfing grew in popularity and crowds increased, subtle changes came into effect. At some point the traditional right of the most respected surfer having priority to the good waves was replaced by the loudest, most aggressive surfer. Further, the skill of the particular surfer taking the wave was suddenly secondary to how much one would or could fight to get that wave.
This is not to say that it was always this way at all the surf spots on every good day. Surfing is a wonderful thing that is extremely fun and satisfying. It makes people feel good. No one who feels good about himself wants or needs to be negative. Many great days of surf were enjoyed by all who were lucky enough to be present, no matter what happened or who got in the way.
The Resort World and the Snow Sports Industry have also changed quite a bit. We got Ikon & Epic Passes, Snowboarders, Sprinter Vans, Entitled Locals, Online Mtn Cams, Real time Lift Status Reports, VRBO, a lack of affordable work force housing and a shrinking labor pool to service all the wonderful and deserving Guests. Mike Rufer and I would laugh at how wacky the world had become recently and talk story for hours about the good old days of Mammoth and Ski Patrolling. We knew that some things will never change, it’s just the way it is. Same as it ever was, but it wasn’t. Mike sounded a guy out surfing last summer for not taking his turn. The guy was obviously one of the special people that had no respect for the past, elders or anything except his own wave hogging experience. In just a few words, Mike won him over and sent him in for a time out. The guy came out later and apologized for being such a Kook. Mike schooled him and set him on a path of enlightenment. Reminded me of how he treated the new guys on Patrol and gained their respect. Mike taught me a lot about life and how to play the game.
But times have changed quite a bit. I have thought about how difficult it must be for beginning surfers to learn in some of these aggressive line-ups of today. So maybe this person is clueless and does no research, or asks questions, nothing really prepares him for that first experience. But say he perseveres and decides surfing is something he wants to spend time to learn. He invests in the equipment, figures out the time and place part and starts to put in his hours. His skills advance and his timing improves, and all of a sudden he finds himself able to catch a waves, stand up and perhaps even begin to ride them.
A beginning surfer is, in large part, a function of the spot he surfs at. It becomes apparent at some point that to improve his skills, a surfer needs to raise the level of the waves he is attempting to ride. It is the same in any sport; one begins on the lesser slopes skiing or snowboarding and goes to steeper hills once he gains proficiency or confidence. These two factors, however, don’t necessarily increase at the same rate together. So the novice surfer will inevitably show up on a good day at one of the better spots that is frequented by the better surfers.
Surfing for reasons undefined has always been easier for younger persons-perhaps there is more flexibility and less expectation. But our middle-age beginner guy paddles out into the surf zone, where young hot shots zip around and older more experienced grumpy guys glower at everyone. It is not a welcoming environment. A wave comes towards him, maybe breaking faster than anything he’s used to, and thinking he sees an opening, he paddles for it. Then a long haired 12-year-old flies by out of nowhere, launching airborne right over his head-or it might be the grumpy old guy. Either way, suddenly they are screaming at him, calling him a kook, ready to pound his head, and tell him to get out of the water.
Sound familiar? It’s not a pretty picture. I find it amazing that so many beginning surfers hang in there and keep surfing. But who can deny the attraction of surfing where so little can become so much. The sudden acceleration of one small drop, the clean arc of a bottom turn, the wonderfulness of a slash off the top, the surprise, excitement and smile that follow any of these. Sometimes just the sight of a wave being ridden beautifully by another surfer or maybe peeling by empty and sparkling is enough to keep one coming back again and again. In comparison, what another person does, says or implies can be like the odor of flatulence-distasteful but only momentarily. Life goes on and the waves keep coming.
I don’t believe that misery breeds company. I think the opposite is true-happiness and enjoyment are magnetic. But uncrowded line-ups of good waves attract surfers quickly, faster than ever in this modern age of instant communication and contact, on the move lifestyles. Suddenly the waves are empty no longer and where there had been only stoke, now there is some tension. Localism is really an extension of the elder surfer concept, and functions, basically to show or teach those who don’t know. It has, however deteriorated to the extreme and lost whatever educational value it should have.
It has been my experience that unhappy surfers who expend energy on being unfriendly and negative in the line-ups don’t last long in surfing. Why would people continue doing something that makes them mad and keeps putting them on a bummer? Unfortunately, for some people even the boundless joy of surfing isn’t enough to raise the level of consciousness.
Mike used to say, “We are only visitors on this planet. We are here for whatever time we get and we should make the most of that time. During that period, we must try to do something good, something useful with ourselves. Be at peace and share that peace with others. If you contribute to other people’s happiness, you will find the true goal, the true meaning of life.” Try to apply this to skiing/surfing. The best surfer/skier is the guy having the most fun. Live Aloha. Thanks, Mike for making a difference in so many lives.
Bill Medove –